Mangrove Snake
Courtesy of DM Exotics
Mangrove snakes (Boiga dendrophila) have long-held a special place in my herpetoculture heart as an interesting species. Not simply because they are in fact venomous but just the Mangrove snake (Boiga dendrophila) in its behaviors and movements through a properly set up enclosure
This in my opinion is something to do with an adaptation to their habitat, which is lowland rain forests, and of course, Mangrove swamps from whence they take their namesake. Currently there are a total of 9 subspecies of Mangrove snake (Boiga dendrophila) the ones I have seen for sale are always the (Boiga dendrophila dendrophila) which are imported from Indonesia. As we all understand, imported species of any kind generally don’t do well when they arrive in a captive environment (more about that here), fear not fellow venom junky. There are captive bred Mangrove snakes (Boiga dendrophila dendrophila) available for sale.
Nocturnal Rainforest
Courtesy of DM Exotics
Setting up an enclosure to house the Mangrove snake (Boiga dendrophila dendrophila) is somewhat similar to a Chameleon enclosure. They do best in an arboreal enclosure with plenty of hiding space and branches. I would suggest using a glass enclosure where the basking spot can be kept somewhere between 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit with a drop of about ten degrees in the cooler area. In a captive environment I have heard of red heat lights being used but as I have mentioned in my article on lighting (Colored Lights) it is my understanding that doing so keeps our scaly friends in a perpetual sunset environment. I therefore recommend that we use nothing except a ceramic heating element that gives out no light whatsoever. This way we will not disturb the normal circadian rhythm of the snake.
Enclosure
An enclosure size of 24x24x47 usually will work well for almost all Mangrove snakes as they average about 4’ in length for the larger species that attain lengths of over 6’ then you will need something larger. I recommend glass enclosures and then using aquarium silicone gluing in 3 cork bark panels one at the back and one on each side. To this you can affix various bromeliad species of plants (the ones without spiny leaves). Having the enclosure closed off like this allows the snake to not only feel more secure in their environment but also increases humidity because the bark panels also hold some of the water from escaping.
As far as plants are concerned any of the reptile safe plants listed will work. I like to leave my plant in pots as a true vivarium which is planted can be problematic to clean as you have to remove the snake and handle it more than is really necessary. False trees or shrubs work well with one or two live vining plants such as pothos work very well for this type of enclosure. You want to create a dense network of branches and foliage where the snake can curl up in and feel secure and hidden from sight. Branches can be affixed to the enclosure walls with aquarium silicone as well.
Humidity
Humidity is something which we would also find within a rainforest or swamp and this needs to be provided as well. Keep the humidity somewhere between 60-80% by misting the entire enclosure in heavily in the morning and then allowing it to dry throughout the day. Special attention must be maintained however to make sure that while the substrate is moist it’s not soaking wet. Wet substrate can lead to complications of respiratory as well as scale infections.
Water
Courtesy of Preserve Venomous.com
Water should be provided in a large enough water bowl where the snake can climb in and soak but not submerge itself completely. Mangrove snakes (Boiga sp.) don’t take water from a bowl. They drink water from their bodies and the foliage provided which is another reason to make sure you have either a heavily planted or at least several false foliage plants that they cannot only hide amongst but can also use to drink water from the leaves. With the spraying each morning mentioned above the snake should have plenty of water to drink throughout the day. As with all reptiles the water should be removed daily and cleaned completely then fresh water added.
Substrates
When it comes to substrates there are a couple of different choices and in the end it comes down to personal choice as they are all about the same when compared side by side. The one that I most often recommend is ground-cover or orchid bark found at any hardware store or home improvement center. Others recommend using the expandable bricks of coconut coir
Feeding
When it comes to feeding the Mangrove snake (Boiga sp.) in the wild they will take small mammals, fish, reptiles, and birds. In captivity if you should buy a wild caught snake it can be somewhat problematic to get them to switch from lizard to rodent prey. For this reason alone it is always better to buy a captive bred snake which has already been started on rodent prey.
Courtesy of Preserve Venomous.com
They are known as an aggressive snake both in handling and feeding so it is a generally accepted rule of thumb that it is best to feed them with tongs. They also have long strike range presumably again due to their arboreal nature. They seem to be slightly more aggressive at night when they are actively foraging. It’s been my experience that this is the best time to feed them when the lights are out. When feeding grasp the mouse by the tail with tongs and dangle it in front the snake and this will cause the feeding response quickly. Feeding should be done either weekly or every other week.
The entire genus or complex as it is sometimes called are all venomous opisthoglyphic or rear fanged snakes which means that the snakes have fangs at the rear of the mouth which are grooved. These types of snake which include hognose (Heterodon sp.) chew on the intended prey item to inject their venom. To most humans the rear fanged snakes are thought to be medically irrelevant however Dr. Fry has written a paper which shows this is not always the case and some ‘mildly venomous’ snakes can have devastating effects on humans. You can read his paper here Dr. Bryan Grieg Fry.
This also doesn’t take into account the fact that you may have an allergic reaction to the Mangrove Snake (Boiga sp.) venom which could lead to anaphylaxis. The only way to know if you are in fact allergic to the venom is to actually be envenomated. Given how quickly anaphylaxis can set in leading to complete respiratory arrest the risk is not worth the reward of free handling your Mangrove (Boiga sp.) Always when handling your Mangrove (Boiga sp.) use tongs and keep the snake under the control of those tongs while any enclosure maintenance or moving of the snake has to be done.
Courtesy of DM Exotics
Rain Forests in the Home
As you can see the Mangrove (Boiga sp.) can be kept in captivity with relative ease and is a very stunning snake in the right environment. Some keepers have come across the mellow and handleable snake but I personally have yet to see one of this nature. All the ones I have had the opportunity to work with are not jumpy per se but they are not at all handleable. I would describe them best as a flight risk type of snake where they simply want to get away all the time and when restrained then they tend to bite rather quickly. Left to their own devices they will explore their enclosures during the night and sometimes during the day as well. If it’s not a necessity that you handle your pets then Mangrove (Boiga sp.) make an incredible ornamental pet similar to the Chameleons.
References & Photo Permissions:
DM Exotics = Photos
Millipedes & More = Tongs
Preserve Venomous = Photos