Authored by Pete Hawkins: Chameleon Network / Bearded Dragons Network / Snake Network / Lizard Network / Amphibian Network
The following is a guide to what I do during this period, and the reasons why I do these thing’s.
More often than not, a point will come in a Bearded Dragon’s life where the need for brumation Is necessary (meaning artificial hibernation). In captivity, not all Dragons will do this. But for many of us, the first time around can be a worrying time.
But, don’t worry. It’s a completely natural process. Done In the wild purely for survival. To get through the colder months, where less live food and plant life is prominent. So, they will sleep it off by making a burrow, and wait till the warmer months again, and live off their built up internal nutritional reserves.
With my captive Dragons, there a few thing’s to which I will do, without fail when the time comes, to make the process much more easy for yourself, and your Dragon.
Many people will advise Not to let any dragon under 12 months old go into brumation. I would fully agree with this.
They simply may not as yet have the built up the nutritional reserves needed to get through without issue.
But IF deemed healthy via a visit to your exotic Veterinarian. Meaning heathy weight, and parasite free. Then all should be fine.
Remember. Our dragons can brumate any time. They are hard-wired to the southern hemisphere of Australia. So the season run opposite to the UK/Europe/USA.
The first thing I will do, Is get a faecal/parasite test done via my Vets, or ‘PALS Lab‘ here In the UK. If any issues occur in the results, I can get It treated before I help the brumation process along.
I will start reducing temps over the next couple of weeks. Right to the point where there is no heating on at all at. This can be down by reducing basking hours. Or even a lower watt bulb, thus lower temperatures.
I will also offer less and less food. Again, to the point of nothing being offered in the final week or so. And one of the main reasons for keeping the heat on at this point, is to ensure your dragon has had a poo. Anything left in the stomach can rot inside them, this will cause many serious problems.
The rotting food in the stomach is something I have experienced first hand with a beardie I had many years ago. He got very sick during brumation and needed vet treatment. It was touch and go for a while but he recovered fully. And also went on to brumate over the following years without problems.
Brumation can last a few weeks, or up-to 4 month’s.
One of my dragons In Brumation
Once the dragon had it’s poo in those final days of the temperature reducing routine, turn off the basking bulb and UV and leave them to sleep. Simple as that really
Turning off the heat and UVB will not harm a healthy dragon at all. In fact, it’s exactly what would happen while in a burrow in wild conditions. The heat and UVB is what needed for energy/digestive conversion, to name a few things. But of course, sleeping requires none of this. Due to not being active, and not eating.
The only other thing I will do is cover the vivarium/Tanks glass with either paper, or a blanket. So its nice and dark for them.
And I will still check on them daily.
Brumation can last a few weeks, up-to 4 months.
It is very important that you do NOT offer food during this period for the reasons I mentioned above. They won’t be able to digest it, and it will cause problems.
Water can and should always be offered via a small water bowl in the enclosure.
Also note, a healthy dragon won’t lose much weight during this period. Mines have lost around 3 or 4 grams on average each time.
Then one day when you check on them, you will find them up and about, looking at you. Or you will hear them moving around.
A healthy dragon wont lose much weight during this period
At this point I will bath them and turn everything back on again (Heat & UV). Then feed them. They will be extremely hungry, so make sure you have plenty of food.
Good to have some canned food (Crickets, hoppers) until you can source some proper live food. A day or 2 using this method is fine.
Over the next few day, all being well, your dragon should start to be their normal self again, like nothing has even happened.
So to summarize, Brumation is a completely natural thing. So we must do what we can to assist. This is WHY we turn off the heat and UVB lighting. To simulate wild conditions. Where they would dig a burrow so it’s very dark. And of course, safe and away from any potential predators.So when the signs start to happen, its important you take your dragons lead and let them get on with it.
Wild Burrowing Dragon
There is no such thing as Semi-Brumation. This term Is still thrown about in the Bearded Dragon groups.
Basically your dragon will want to go into brumation, thus slow-down. It’s only the keeper that is stopping them going down as they want. Again, this CAN cause issues.
As the dragon is not eating, and often hiding away, trying to preserve energy/body nutrition to get through the brumation period. Being awake is using such valued energy etc. (vet advice still needed in-case it’s not brumation and other issues).
So, delaying brumation by not allowing when they are trying, can cause issues.
They can often just stay hidden, and not eat much. Often for several weeks, even months, until given the chance of complete darkness.
Again…..Not every dragon will brumate
Again…..Not every dragon will brumate. Just if they do, follow these simple steps, and all will be less stressful for your dragon, and of course, you.